SUPERMODELS

Introduction to Cat Walk

Supermodels are a new generation of celebrities who have eclipsed pop and movie stars as modern icons. Today, models like Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer are household names, whereas just a decade ago, models were largely anonymous outside the mainstream. These superstars have expanded their careers beyond the runway, as modeling gave them the recognition they needed to conquer the world. The new Renaissance models are savvy businesswomen who have built their names on international brands and multi-million dollar empires.

In 1988, Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford were the first supermodels to explode onto the scene. Soon after, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Tatjana Patitz joined the original duo. The famous five had arrived! About a year later, Linda, Christy, and Naomi formed the trinity: the most sought-after trio on the planet, posing, modeling, and hanging out together. But the supertroupe was soon joined by Claudia, Helena, Yasmin, Stephanie, and others. Then came the second generation of supermodels, led by Kate Moss. And now a new generation of models is emerging, with models like Trish Goff and, more recently, Jodie Kidd entering the supermodel realm.

The term "supermodel" was coined by the media, but what sparked this phenomenon? According to Chris Owen, managing director of Elite Premier, it was a combination of factors: "At that time, Hollywood lacked glamour, so the media turned its attention to models." Elite was instrumental in launching the supermodels. They represented the bulk of the original supermodel group and negotiated the first major endorsement contracts. "It was also the million-dollar cosmetics campaigns," Owen continues, "along with Linda Evangelista's infamous comment, 'We don't get out of bed for less than $10,000,'" that elevated models to a different realm. To fit into the exclusive supermodel category, a model originally had to earn more than a million dollars a year. But today's biggest names are reputed to earn up to $12 million annually. These days, the title is applied much more liberally. The word "super" has become a prefix for virtually everything associated with the fashion industry, hence superwaifs, superbabes, supermales, and superagents.

THE MODEL'S MARKERS: Supermodels owe much of their fame to some of the most powerful people in fashion: the agents who discover them; the top photographers, designers, and fashion editors who provide them with major opportunities; and the entourage of makeup artists and hairstylists who create their supermodel looks. Without all these professionals, a model wouldn't have a career.

SUPERMODEL MERCHANDISE: Magazines and advertisers were quick to recognize the tremendous power of supermodels. Supermodels sell. A well-known face can increase a magazine's sales by thousands or help promote a fragrance or fashion line. Companies like Revlon, Pepsi, and Clairol pay models millions of dollars to endorse their brands and products. Supermodels clearly have commercial clout: everything they touch turns to gold. Now, supermodel paraphernalia has swept the world, with collector's cards, schoolbooks, dolls, and posters available. And recently, the Elite modeling agency, along with its supermodels, launched a fashion line for supermodels—Elite Model Fashions.

CELEBRITIES: Supermodels host talk shows, write for magazines, organize charity events, make cameo appearances in films, and when they're not busy releasing calendars and fitness videos, they open their own restaurants. Like pop and movie celebrities, supermodels are pursued by fans from all over the world. Their agents are inundated with mail every week. To satisfy these admirers, some supermodels have produced documentary-style films or books—autobiographies and photographic retrospectives of their modeling careers.

THE MODELING INDUSTRY: The cult of the supermodel has helped transform modeling into a multicultural profession, as models from far-flung corners of the globe now view it as a respectable and glamorous career. Asian, Eastern European, African, and South American models are now as desirable as their Western counterparts. Media exposure has raised the profile of modeling and exposed it to criticism from those seeking to tarnish its stellar image. Modeling, like any high-stakes business, can be difficult, competitive, and cutthroat. But according to many models and agents, including April Ducksbury, who has been in the business for thirty years, it's still a great place to be. "For the right people, with the right qualities and attitude, it's a wonderful profession with immense opportunities," says April, a partner at the top agency Models 1.

The booming fashion industry has created a diverse market for a variety of models. Male modeling is a relatively new but rapidly expanding field. Mature models are also on the rise, while older women, such as 1950s model Carmen and famed 1960s model Lauren Hutton, are experiencing a renaissance.

PRESS: Rarely a day goes by without newspapers publishing an article about a model's latest boyfriend, a movie role, a book launch, or any scandal the press can find to write about. Even when Naomi Campbell fell on the Vivienne Westwood runway, the news made headlines. Her 12-inch platform shoes became celebrity memorabilia and are now on display at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Some journalists put supermodels on pedestals, others tear them down. But, like most stars, they know that fame comes at a price.

WHAT'S NEXT?: The supermodel phenomenon hasn't peaked yet. Each new generation of supermodels will continue to reach ever-greater heights and usher the supermodel world into a new millennium.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MODELING.

FROM THE first mannequins and models to today's supermodels, the 20th century saw modeling rise to prominence and develop into a thriving industry.

It was shortly after the turn of the century that some of the first photographic models [as photographic models were known at the time] appeared in magazines such as American and British Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Actresses and debutantes were the type of ladies who posed in the studios of eminent photographers when they weren't busy modeling or attending social events. These models were required to hold rigid poses, often for hours on end. The inception of haute couture paved the way for the first runway models, who modeled expensive evening gowns for the designers' exclusive clientele. Beginning in the 1920s, couturiers like Coco Chanel hired high-society young women to model their latest collections for the press, buyers, and private clients. These original models were demure and refined creatures, possessing elegance and poise. Between graceful struts around the salon, in-house models were used for fittings. Models had to conform to designers' specific measurements and stood for hours while samples were fitted, pinned, and tacked to their bodies. To recruit models, photographers and fashion houses had to advertise, specifying the measurements and type of model they needed. In an attempt to meet this demand, a wave of supposed agencies run by disreputable individuals suddenly emerged. But most did nothing but tarnish the image of the modeling profession. The UK's first reputable modeling agency, Lucie Clayton's, opened in 1928. Founded as a modeling and beauty school, Clayton's established itself as a highly successful agency, representing famous models such as Jean Shrimpton, Sandra Paul, Fiona Campbell-Walter, Tania Mallet, and Celia Hammond. Young women enrolled in a course, learned the fundamental rules of behavior and aesthetics, and graduated from the agency's books. Across the Atlantic, the first American models were beginning to emerge from the legendary Ford agency.

Ford was launched in the New York home of Eileen and Jerry Ford in 1946 and is now run by their daughter Katie. Eileen Ford is known as the godmother of modeling. Unlike her predecessors, she had a much more maternal and professional approach to business. Ford nurtured the careers of some of the first successful models, such as Suzy Parker, and later went on to represent many A-list models, including Lauren Hutton, Jerry Hall, and Christie Brinkley. In Paris, a third woman joined the ranks of female agents. Dorian Leigh, a former successful American model, founded The Fashion Bureau—the first French modeling agency. These agents were busy arranging schedules to fit their models' high-society lifestyles.

The 1960s brought endless changes to the fashion landscape. With the strong influence of fashion and pop music in this exciting new era, the fashion industry was hungry for fresh faces. And so, a new generation of models was created: the '60s hippie girl. These new models were not like the mechanical, poised models of previous decades; they were energetic and lively, bouncing freely around the studio in the cool new fashions. While Mary Quant was designing the mini, photographer David Bailey was busy discovering Jean Shrimpton (known as The Shrimp), dating her, and transforming her into a star. Her wide-eyed look and childlike innocence would embody the sophisticated end of '60s fashion. This decade also spawned names like Veruschka and Lauren Hutton. However, it was Leslie Hornby, aka Twiggy, who became a household name and captured the world's attention. Under the guidance of her Svengali, Justin de Villeneuve, she rose to the top and became a larger-than-life icon. Her pixie face, wide eyes, and stick-thin body, combined with her Cockney accent, would reflect the quintessential mood of the vibrant 1960s. Although her modeling career lasted only four years, during that time she became so well-known that she managed to get her name on a brand. There was a Twiggy hair salon, a sock line, and a boutique in London. Models were no longer anonymous—they had become as marketable as the clothes they sold.

In the 1960s, a model's career lasted only a few years—a decade, if they were lucky. And Leslie Kark, owner of Lucie Clayton, points out that even famous models earned far less in a year than today's supermodels earn in a day: "In the 1960s, top models earned a maximum of £10 to £12 an hour and typically worked three to four days a week," says Leslie. At the end of their short careers, some models "married well," and others, like Lauren Hutton and Joanna Lumley, became successful actresses. Jean Shrimpton moved to the English countryside to manage a hotel, and Veruschka became an artist.

The 1970s saw the demise of the Lucie Clayton agency (although the school is still in operation) and the birth of what would become the largest and most powerful agency network in the world: Elite. John Casablancas opened Elite's first office in Paris in 1971. As the fashion market expanded, modeling became a major industry. But, in contrast to the notorious 1960s, models of the following two decades would maintain a relatively low profile. Jerry Hall, Marie Helvin, and Christie Brinkley were three of the few prominent names of that era. Until the mid-1980s, modeling was divided into two main divisions: runway and photography. Runway models were tall, sylph-like creatures with strong angular features and a penchant for strutting down the runway. The main requirement for these models was that they walk well and master their turns and twirls. They also required makeup skills, as models at the time were often required to do their own hair and makeup. A photo model needed to be photogenic, as well as have the right height and vital statistics. And as the emphasis shifted away from formal poses, a model needed to be able to move well and be spontaneous in front of the camera. Models typically specialized in one area of ​​work. Today, however, most models work in all areas of haute couture, including runways, commercials, videos, and photo work for fashion magazines and advertising campaigns. The early 1980s saw a boom in the fashion industry, and as more fashion, fragrance, and cosmetics clients understood the powerful concept of advertising, the demand for models increased accordingly. Campaigns became pan-European, and then the industry went global. Elite and Ford opened branches in every capital city around the world, and large independent agencies began to spring up everywhere. Then came the biggest and most important factor that would revolutionize the fashion industry: the birth of the supermodel.

DO YOU UNDERSTAND HOW THE SUPERMODEL INDUSTRY CAME TO BE AND WHO WERE THE MAIN SUPERMODELS OF THE PAST DECADES SINCE ITS EMERGENCE?

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