SUPERMODELS

Cat Walk Introduction

Supermodels are a new breed of celebrity that have eclipsed pop and movie stars as modern icons. Today, models like Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer are household names, whereas just a decade ago, models were anonymous outside the industry. These superstars have expanded their careers beyond the catwalk, as modeling gave them the recognition needed to conquer the world. The new renaissance models are shrewd businesswomen who have built their names into international brands and multimillion-dollar empires.

In 1988, Linda Evangelista and Cindy Crawford were the first supermodels to explode onto the circuit. Soon after, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Tatjana Patitz joined the original duo. The five famous ones had arrived! About a year later, Linda, Christy, and Naomi formed the trinity: the most requested trio on the planet, who would pose, walk, and go out together. But the super-troupe was soon joined by Claudia, Helena, Yasmin, Stephanie, and others. Then came the second generation of supermodels, led by Kate Moss. And now a new generation of models is emerging, with models like Trish Goff and, more recently, Jodie Kidd entering the supermodel realm.

The term "supermodel" was coined by the media, but what triggered this phenomenon? According to Chris Owen, managing director of Elite Premier, it was a combination of factors: "Back then, Hollywood lacked glamour, so the media turned its attention to models." Elite was instrumental in launching the supermodels. They represented the majority of the original supermodel group and negotiated the first major "endorsement" contracts. "It was also the multimillion-dollar cosmetic campaigns," continues Owen, "along with Linda Evangelista's infamous comment, 'we don't wake up for less than $10,000,'" that elevated models to a different sphere. To fit into the exclusive supermodel category, a model originally had to earn over a million dollars a year. But today's biggest names are rumored to earn up to twelve million dollars annually. Nowadays, the title is applied much more loosely. The word "super" has become a prefix for practically everything associated with the fashion industry, hence superwaifs, superbabes, supermales, and superagents.

THE MODEL'S MARKERS:Supermodels owe much of their glory to some of the most powerful people in fashion: the agents who discover them; the photographers, designers, and top fashion editors who provide them with great opportunities; and the entourage of makeup artists and hairstylists who create their supermodel looks. Without all these professionals, a model would not have a career.

SUPERMODEL PRODUCTS:Magazines and advertisers were quick to realize the tremendous drawing power of supermodels. Supermodels sell. A familiar face can increase magazine circulation by thousands or help promote a fragrance or fashion line. Companies like Revlon, Pepsi, and Clairol pay models millions of dollars to endorse their brands and products. Supermodels clearly have commercial influence: everything they touch turns to gold. Now, supermodel paraphernalia has swept the world, with collector cards, schoolbooks, dolls, and posters available. And recently, the Elite modeling agency, in conjunction with its supermodels, launched a fashion line for supermodels - Elite Model Fashions.

CELEBRITIES:Supermodels host talk shows, write for magazines, organize charity events, make cameo appearances in movies, and, when they are not busy launching calendars and fitness videos, they open their own restaurants. Just like pop and movie celebrities, supermodels are chased by fans from all over the world. Their agents are flooded with mail every week. To satisfy these admirers, some supermodels have produced documentary-style films or books – autobiographies and photographic retrospectives of their modeling careers.

THE MODELING INDUSTRY:The cult of the supermodel has helped turn modeling into a multicultural profession, as girls from remote corners of the globe now see it as a respectable and glamorous career. Asian, Eastern European, African, and South American models are now as desirable as their Western counterparts. Media exposure has raised the profile of modeling and exposed it to criticism from those who want to tarnish its shining image. Modeling, like any other high-stakes business, can be difficult, competitive, and ruthless. But, according to many models and agents, including April Ducksbury, who has been in the business for thirty years, it is still a great world to be involved in. "For the right people, with the right qualities and attitude, it's a wonderful profession with immense opportunities," says April, a partner at top agency Models 1.

The boom in the fashion industry has created a diverse market for a variety of models. Male modeling is a relatively new but rapidly expanding area. Mature models are also on the rise, while older women, such as 50s model Carmen and famous 60s model Lauren Hutton, are undergoing a renaissance.

PRESS:Rarely does a day go by without newspapers publishing a story about a model's latest boyfriend, a movie role, a book launch, or any scandal the press can find to write about. Even when Naomi Campbell fell on the catwalk at Vivienne Westwood's show, the news made headlines. The 12-inch platform shoes became celebrity memorabilia and are now on display at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. Some journalists put supermodels on pedestals, others tear them down. But, like most stars, they know that fame has a price.

WHAT'S NEXT?:The supermodel phenomenon has not yet reached its peak. Each new generation of supermodels will continue to reach ever-greater heights and lead the world of supermodels into a new millennium.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MODELING.

FROM THE FIRST mannequins and models to today's supermodels, the 20th century saw modeling gain prominence and develop into a thriving industry.

It was just after the turn of the century that some of the first photographic models [as they were known at the time] appeared in magazines like American and British Vogue and Harper's Bazaar. Actresses and debutantes were the type of ladies who posed in the studios of eminent photographers, when they weren't busy walking in shows or attending social events. These models were required to hold rigid poses, often for hours at a time. The inauguration of haute couture paved the way for the first runway mannequins, who showed off expensive evening gowns to the designers' exclusive clientele. From the 1920s onwards, couturiers like Coco Chanel hired young women from high society to show their latest collections to the press, buyers, and private clients. These original mannequins were demure and refined creatures, possessing elegance and poise. Between graceful walks through the salon, house models were used for fittings. Models had to fit the designers' specific measurements and would stand for several hours while samples were adjusted, pinned, and tacked onto their bodies. To recruit models, photographers and fashion houses had to advertise, specifying the measurements and the type of model they needed. In an attempt to meet this demand, a wave of supposed agencies run by unworthy individuals suddenly appeared. But most did nothing but tarnish the image of the modeling profession. The UK's first reputable modeling agency, Lucie Clayton's, opened in 1928. Founded as a modeling and deportment school, Clayton's established itself as a highly successful agency, representing famous models such as Jean Shrimpton, Sandra Paul, Fiona Campbell-Walter, Tania Mallet, and Celia Hammond. The young women would enroll in a course, learn the fundamental rules of behavior and aesthetics, and graduate from the agency's books. On the other side of the Atlantic, the first American models began to emerge from the legendary Ford agency.

Ford was launched in Eileen and Jerry Ford's home in New York in 1946 and is now run by their daughter Katie. Eileen Ford is known as the godmother of modeling. Unlike her predecessors, she had a much more maternal and professional approach to the business. Ford managed the careers of some of the first successful mannequins, such as Suzy Parker, and later went on to represent many top-tier models, including Lauren Hutton, Jerry Hall, and Christie Brinkley. In Paris, a third woman joined the female agents. Dorian Leigh, who had been a successful American model, founded The Fashion Bureau - the first French modeling agency. These agents were busy organizing schedules to fit their models' high-society lifestyles.

The 1960s brought endless changes to the fashion landscape. With the strong influence of fashion and pop music in this exciting new era, the fashion industry was hungry for fresh faces. And so, a new generation of models was created: the hippie girl of the 60s. These new models were not like the mechanical and poised models of previous decades; they were energetic and lively, bouncing freely around the studio in the cool new fashions. While Mary Quant was designing the mini, photographer David Bailey was busy discovering Jean Shrimpton (known as The Shrimp), dating her, and turning her into a star. Her wide-eyed look and childlike innocence would personify the sophisticated end of 60s fashion. This decade also spawned names like Veruschka and Lauren Hutton. However, it was Leslie Hornby, also known as Twiggy, who became a household name and captured the world's attention. Under the guidance of her Svengali, Justin de Villeneuve, she rose to the top and became a larger-than-life icon. Her pixie face, wide eyes, and stick-thin body, combined with her Cockney accent, reflected the quintessential mood of the vibrant 60s. Although her modeling career lasted only four years, during that period she became so well-known that she was able to put her name on a brand. There was a Twiggy hair salon, a line of stockings, and a boutique in London. Models were no longer anonymous – they had become as marketable as the clothes they sold.

In the 1960s, a model's career lasted only a few years — a decade, if they were lucky. And Leslie Kark, owner of Lucie Clayton, points out that even famous models earned far less in a year than today's supermodels earn in a day: "In the 1960s, top models earned a maximum of £10 to £12 per hour and usually worked three to four days a week," says Leslie. At the end of their short careers, some models "married well" and others, like Lauren Hutton and Joanna Lumley, became successful actresses. Jean Shrimpton moved to the English countryside to run a hotel and Veruschka became an artist.

The 1970s witnessed the end of the Lucie Clayton agency (though the school is still in operation) and the birth of what would become the largest and most powerful agency network in the world: Elite. John Casablancas opened the first Elite office in Paris in 1971. As the fashion market expanded, modeling became a major industry. But, in contrast to the notorious 60s, the models of the following two decades would keep a relatively low profile. Jerry Hall, Marie Helvin, and Christie Brinkley were three of the few prominent names of that era. Until the mid-1980s, modeling was divided into two main divisions: runway and photographic. Runway models were tall, sylph-like creatures with strong angular features and a penchant for walking the catwalk. The main requirement for these models was that they walk well and master their turns. They also needed makeup skills, as back then models were often required to do their own hair and makeup. A photographic model would need to be photogenic, in addition to having the right height and vital statistics. And as the emphasis moved away from formal poses, a model needed to be able to move well and be spontaneous before the cameras. Models usually specialized in one area of work. Today, however, most models work in all areas of high fashion, including catwalk, commercials, videos, and photographic work for fashion magazines and advertising campaigns. In the early 1980s, there was a boom in the fashion industry and, as more fashion, fragrance, and cosmetic clients understood the powerful concept of advertising, the demand for models increased proportionately. Campaigns became pan-European, and then the industry became global. Elite and Ford opened branches in every capital in the world, and large independent agencies began to spring up everywhere. Then came the biggest and most important factor that would revolutionize the fashion industry: the birth of the supermodel.

HAVE YOU UNDERSTOOD HOW THE SUPERMODEL INDUSTRY AROSE AND WHO THE MAIN SUPERMODELS OF PAST DECADES WERE SINCE ITS INCEPTION?

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