Fashion Designer's Dictionary
Letter A. [english]
Adjustable Seam Gauge - A very useful measuring instrument, consisting of a 15 cm (6 in.) metal strip with a movable arrow. It is stiffer than a tape measure and faster to use, especially when a measurement needs to be repeated. Set the arrow for a hem, buttonholes, width of a crosswise strip, etc., and cut or mark with chalk quickly at intervals beside the arrow. It is worth having two gauges for occasions when two measurements are needed and one of the settings can be left for any length of time. Also use two gauges to mark the length of buttonholes and the spacing between them.
Adjustable Zipper Foot - This is one of the most useful additional feet supplied with a sewing machine. If it is not part of your standard equipment, it is well worth buying. The construction of the foot varies according to the machine brand, but the principle is that it can be adjusted so that the machine needle sews very close to the zipper teeth. A small part is hollowed out to accommodate the tip of the needle, but as the foot can be adjusted to sew to the right or left, it is best to check carefully that the needle will not hit the foot and break, adjusting it a little further if necessary. Most zipper feet are constructed to grip the fabric well to prevent the fabric or zipper tape from moving. Some zipper feet have a section at the back that lowers over the zipper teeth to keep them flat and prevent puckering. The zipper foot can be used to sew invisible zippers as well as conventional zippers with visible teeth. Some zipper feet have a center channel, especially designed for sewing invisible zippers, by snapping onto the zipper teeth and forming a bridge.
A-Line - The original term was coined by Christian Dior and indicated a well-defined A-shape, with volume below the knee. Nowadays, we use the term to describe any dress or skirt that flares from the waist to the hips, with the seams forming a slight angle outward, resulting in a skirt that is wider at the hem than at the hips, but not so voluminous as to form pleats.
ALTERATIONS - If alterations are required on a ready-to-wear garment, such as changing zippers, keep the following in mind: Unpick only the essential area. Do not rush to remove a zipper or the entire waistband. When releasing the first stitches, check for another layer of interfacing or lining that will be released. If so, stop and make a basting line to secure it. If possible, try on the alterations before finishing them. It is easy to make them too tight or too loose. Do not iron all the creases until the garment is reassembled. The stitching lines serve as a guide and can be reused, or you can sew parallel to them. Often, it will be easier to finish the alteration with hand sewing on the right side if the area is small or difficult to reach. Sometimes it is difficult to align a machine stitch on the inside with the remains of the previous seam; in that case, one solution is to do a slip stitch or something similar on the right side to finish. When unpicking ready-made clothes, observe the construction and, if any edges are frayed or fragile areas appear, reinforce them before attempting to adjust.
ANCHOR MACHINE EMBROIDERY THREAD - A fine mercerized thread used for all types of machine embroidery. You can use number 30 or 50, depending on the desired result and the thickness of the fabric. This thread is also ideal for making machine buttonholes on delicate fabrics, working around the buttonhole twice if necessary. Machine embroidery thread does not have enough strength for garment seams but can be used effectively for light decorative embroidery work on baby clothes. It is also a good idea to use it for basting when working with very fine silks, such as chiffon.
ANORAK - Originally a purely practical jacket for hiking and camping in sober colors, it has now evolved into a warm and useful garment for children; part of a school uniform; and also as a fashion piece. The main features that have been kept are the ribbed or elasticated cuffs and waistband and the central front zipper opening. Collar styles vary, including the addition of hoods. Fabrics include waterproof poplin, ciré nylon, all quilted and lined fabrics, wools, knits, and any fabrics suitable for fashion, such as combinations of corduroy and knit.
That's it for today, for the letter A! See you soon!
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